The first time I (not so elegantly) clambered into a wetsuit was about 4 years ago now. Being scared of the sea and not the most confident swimmer, it was a pretty scary experience! After a few times of feeling like I was in a giant washing machine, I was sure that would be my first and final attempt.

Fast forward a few years to summer 2024, I’d been back into the sea to conquer my demons a number of times. I’d managed to stand up a few times by catching the white water and at this point, I’m still pretty scared of the sea! I definitely wouldn’t have been surfing again after my first experience if it hadn’t been for George – my biggest cheerleader!

Then the time comes where we have at least a month traveling around the North coast of Spain to surf. This was my time to finally catch a wave!! But again, I was humbled over and over again, only managing to catch white water. It was at this point I had a choice to make. I could either beat myself up for not being out the back catching waves, or I could have the time of my life in the white water! So, white water here I came!! I had the best time playing in the waves and watching George from afar cheering him on when he caught one. It was awesome. Sometimes I still had that thought creep back in telling myself I wasn’t a surfer for not being able to catch a wave but who cares. I’m having fun.

Then… in Ireland a few months later, something clicked. All the fun I’d been having had led to something beyond my dreams at this point. I caught a wave. An actual wave!!! It wasn’t huge, it definitely wasn’t a barrel, and I wasn’t doing any crazy maneuvers on this wave. But I caught one, and it felt incredible.

Surfing has taught me so much about life. It’s taught me to enjoy every part of it and not to just focus on that one big moment. It’s taught me to be utterly present as there is no chance you can catch a wave, or white water for that matter, without being entirely focused on that particular one. And it’s taught me to have fun and laugh like a lunatic no matter what is thrown your way. Whether it’s a giant wave coming crashing down on you or the dream scene of perfectly lined up waves with the sun setting in the background. Enjoy every moment and ride the wave. 🤙

P.s. I was always a surfer. I didn’t need to be the best of the pack out the back catching barrels. I was a surfer every time I showed up to give it my all and have the best time in that moment.